Saturday, April 28, 2012

Reasons to Consider Grafting


ADVANTAGES OF GRAFTING
  • A newly grafted tip can have root-supported new growth within 10-14 days. Rooting a cutting can take 4-8 weeks for new root support.
  • Grafting has a higher success rate rooting the newer plumeria hybrids.
  • The growth of a grafted plant will be at minimum one-year ahead of a rooted cutting plant.
  • Seedlings of classic plumeria, particularly the white varieties, used for grafting under-stock will have better root structure and better disease resistance for both the roots and the grafted plant tissue. As with hybrid roses, the newer plumeria hybrids are selected for the blossom appearance and not the disease resistance of the adventitious roots.
  • New introductions can be propagated more rapidly thereby speeding the availability of the variety to the public as well as bringing down the plant cost sooner.
  • A single plumeria tree can display a variety of hybrids.
  • The bloom tendency and appearance of a new hybrid can be determined more quickly if the seedling tip is grafted to a mature plant rather than waiting for the seedling to mature and bloom. With this method, the original seedling is preserved and markings matching the grafted scion.

HOW DO YOU KNOW IF A SPECIFIC VARIETY WILL BE HARD TO ROOT?

·    You paid a lot of money for the cutting
·    You are in a hurry for it to root
·    You feel like you must do something to make it root
·    Varieties originating from Thailand are more likely difficult to root because grafting is the predominant method for propagation
·    A newly released cultivar is more likely to be difficult to root than the old American classics
·    Rare and hard to find plumeria are more likely to be difficult to propagate from cuttings

BAG ROOTING - Advantages and What Can Go Wrong


THE ADVANTAGES OF BAG ROOTING

·    Avoids extremes of too wet and too dry
·    Provides what developing roots want most, humid and warm air spaces
·    Bag method does not require adding water
o  Open containers can be over-watered or catch rain
·    Bags trap the moisture, heat and humid air inside
o  Open containers lose water through evaporation
o  When an open container becomes heated in the sun, warm moist air expands and is expelled
o  When a bag is warmed by the sun the moisture that becomes air-borne condenses on the inside of the bag, harmlessly away from the cut-end but available to maintain the humidity of the air spaces


WHAT CAN GO WRONG WITH 
BAG ROOTING?

·    The rooting media was prepared with too much water
·    Rain water can gather and enter at the bonnet unless sealed to prevent this
o  The bonnet can be turned down so as to not act as a funnel
o  Tape or extra tight banding can reduce risk of water entering
·     If the rooting bags are placed directly on a heating pad the temperature will be too high and kill existing roots
·    The delicate roots can break away when removing the bag
o  It is best to let the roots become crowded before removing the bag
o  Tear the bag at both seams that run vertical to either side from top to bottom

Rooting Basics


WHAT DO INITIAL ROOTS REQUIRE?

·    Warm humid air at the cut-end is required for initial and developing roots

·    Warm humid air is all that is required for initial and early root development

PRIMARY PURPOSE OF ROOTING MEDIA

·    provide air spaces

·    maintain humidity of air spaces

·    prevent stagnant water on new roots through absorption


Rooting with the Texas Two-Step


THE TEXAS TWO-STEP
A rooting process with two stages

The purpose of describing rooting in this way is to put more emphasis on the duration prior to committing a cutting into the rooting or potting mix

STAGE ONE

·    Cut-end dries and callus is formed
·    Through-out this Stage the cut-ends can be easily inspected frequently which allows for early intervention in case of a cut-end necrosis
·    At the end of this Stage the cutting is swollen near the cut-end
·    First roots may be seen emerging from the vascular ring
·    Duration of Stage One is from 3 to 8 weeks depending upon cultivar and time of year
·    Open air is recommended for first two-weeks after which cuttings can be stood up in a container with a loose media
o  Container media stores heat and maintains humid air spaces
o  Media can be lava rocks, pine bark, perlite or wood shavings
o  The cuttings can easily be withdrawn for inspection and reinserted

Stage One cuttings that can have rooting end easily inspected

Stage One - callous tissue is seen emerging around the vascular ring

Stage One - cuttings more than ready to throw out roots
Cuttings like these can complete Stage Two
or fill a bag with roots within 16-days

STAGE TWO

·    Roots emerge from callus or vascular ring
·    Small rooting container allows for early confirmation of success and for earlier potting up to a large container
·    This stage is complete when the rooting container is crowded with roots
·    Duration of this stage is often from 16 to 32-days with proper conditions and if Stage One was thoroughly completed
·    Rooting media provides fast drainage and humid air spaces
·    Rooting media should be from 80-88 F for rapid root development
·    Rooting media must not be allowed to remain saturated or wet and cold 
·    Fertilizer is not used
End of Stage Two - Bag rooted cutting ready for potting up
Stage Two - tube rooted cutting standing in wood chips

End of Stage Two - tube rooted cutting left too long in wood chips

Stage Two - gang rooted cuttings standing in shallow bed of pine bark
secured in place with lava rocks

Stage Two - cuttings rooting in tubes in tube rack
After massaging the tube, turn the cutting upside down. While slowly pushing up the tube with the thumb of the hand holding the cutting, push down on the roots through the hole at the bottom of the tube with a little finger or Sharpie Pen.

Using the hand that is not holding the cutting, gently take hold of the roots with your thumb pointing down. With both hands employed turn over the rooted cutting and place into prepared pot and mix.
A group of imported grafted plumeria have had their roots restored in a shallow mix of sphagnum moss and lava rock. Pure pine bark or a mix using pine bark and sphagnum moss also works fine.

End of Stage Two - gang rooted cuttings in mix of peat, fine pine bark, perlite and red lava sand. The lava rocks were to secure the cuttings in position.

Gang rooted cuttings. A shallow depth is adequate and recommended for climates with frequent rain.

Friday, April 27, 2012

Plumeria Workshop and Biomass Reduction Sale

SATURDAY  MAY 5, 2012
- 8:30 A.M. till 4:00 PM
Sunday May 6 after 12:30 PM by appointment
cell number will be posted May 4

Sugarland, Texas - address and map will be posted soon

WORK SHOP

Mike Janson and Mark Terrill will be demonstrating grafting and rooting methods and answering questions about plant care.

PLUMERIA BIOMASS REDUCTION SALE
Bargain Prices

Two large collections are being reduced in size
Large trees have been pruned 
- above is one of several 'Barbados Showgirl'
Mature plants available at below market prices
Large Cuttings Readied for Sale
- Additional cuttings not in photo. Fresh cuttings can be made upon request.
LARGE SELECTION

Countless varieties too many to list. Collection includes some of the best of Elizabeth Thornton, Moragne, Jack Turner of Yucatan and imported Thai varieties.

RARE VARIETIES GRAFTED TO YOUR PLANT

Save an additional $10 - $15 to acquire rare and collectible varieties if you bring your own plumeria plant as grafting under-stock. Examples of some of the varieties that can be grafted to your plant are 'Gina' (aka Jeena Red), Violet Jaded Dragon, Siam Red, 'Razzledazzle', 'Raspberry Sundae'.

Check back for updates. A table will be added to show what the various diameters of grafting scions can be matched (grafted) to your plumeria plant or seedling. The scion is the desired variety that is be grafted to your under-stock.
Barbados Showgirl and Raspberry Sundae in 2011

Barbados Showgirl
Razzledazzle

Amarron's Curly White

Razzleberry is a heavy bloomer


Thursday, March 24, 2011

Wrapping Cuttings in Plastic Wrap

PRESERVING AND ROOTING PLUMERIA CUTTINGS WITH PLASTIC WRAP

Mark Terrill – December 2010

ABSTRACT

Different methods of wrapping to minimize dehydration of plumeria cuttings were evaluated. It was determined that plastic wrap is very affective at maintaining the weight of cuttings and avoiding shriveling during long winter storage. The wrap method recommended does not interfere with the cuttings coming out of dormancy, allows for inspection and speeds rooting. The method was applied to fresh cuttings during the growing season. The method can also be used to re-hydrate and feed cuttings prior to rooting. Risk and risk management is discussed.

PURPOSE

Well hydrated cuttings can better transport components needed to manufacture proteins that fight infection or supply new roots and growth. Well hydrated cuttings will start roots sooner and develop first roots faster.

Because we heat our homes in winter the air drops in humidity and becomes thirsty for water. Cuttings stored over winter this way can have significant shriveling.

Methods of wrapping cuttings to prevent dehydration were evaluated.

PROCEDURE

Nearly two hundred cuttings were taken by the first week of December 2009. The cuttings were stored indoors to be rooted the following April.

Group A were cuttings that were not wrapped. 
Group B were wrapped in newspaper going around the cuttings roughly three times. 
Group C were wrapped the same way with newspaper but had rubber bands around the paper at each end. 
Group D cuttings were wrapped in plastic wrap pulling and twisting the wrap tightly around the cuttings with at least two layers. 
Group E was wrapped with plastic wrap the same way but had rubber bands sealing the ends of the rolled wrap.

With all the wrapped cuttings the tips and ends of the cuttings were allowed to extend beyond the wrap. It was preferred the cut ends continued to have fresh air to keep them dry. In the spring, photo receptors in the epidermal layer determine that the days (photo periods) have become long and the cuttings become active.

Artificial light was neither used to extend the natural winter photo period nor to brighten the natural lighting. Soft indirect light was available through nearby windows. Room temperature was typically 65 F.

EVALUATION OF STORED CUTTINGS

By April the cutting groups were evaluated. Cuttings were only evaluated by sight and feel. The postal scale had quit working and there was no other scale with the sensitivity that would be adequate.

Group A had considerable dehydration with obvious shriveling and had become significantly lighter in weight.

Group B was essentially the same as Group A as it was hard to determine if the unsealed newspaper wrap did any good.

Group C, newspaper with sealed ends, seemed to be slightly better than Group A under close scrutiny but the improvement was not immediately obvious.

Group D, with the plastic wrap, showed no obvious shriveling and was significantly heavier than Group A.

Group E, with the rubber bands sealing the ends of the plastic wrap was clearly better than Group D with both weight and firmness.

NEW CUTTINGS FOR ROOTING

In the summer of 2010 through September 2010 plastic wrap was used on new cuttings to be rooted. Some cuttings were not wrapped. Wrapped cuttings maintained their weight much better as expected. 

Judgment enabled by years of rooting experience and past experience with most of the cultivars indicated the pace of rooting benefited by the wrap. While dates of interest were recorded there were neither adequate control groups nor records of cultivar type, cutting length and before-and-after weights to adequately quantify the comparison of methods.

PLASTIC WRAP AS A ROOTING ENCLOSURE

Other prior test have demonstrated that cuttings only need humid air space to send out roots and that the cuttings will supply adequate moisture into any small enclosure to both establish and maintain humid air.

Figure 1
A previously dry air bag has become wet in only a few days.

A number of cuttings were rooted with only plastic wrap over the cut ends.

The problem with this method is the roots follow the folds or spiral of the plastic wrap and removing the wrap without root damage is difficult.

The photo of my dog Snickers is of one such plastic wrapped rooted cutting.


Figure 2  A cutting has rooted with the end wrapped in plastic wrap

While the rooting cutting can be wrapped in plastic wrap, the preferred way to see the formation of first adventitious roots is to have the rooting end in a small rooting bag.


Figure 3 - Two cuttings have formed roots in the humidity of air bags with only the cuttings providing moisture.

Figure 4 – Photo taken October 6, 2010.  
Cuttings taken August 9 and August 2, 2010 were wrapped with Saran wrap and rooted in air bags.  It is not recommended to allow roots to grow this far in an air bag because the roots may gather condensate, become drenched, turn black and die.

RE-HYDRATING AND FEEDING CUTTINGS

With tub soaking of cuttings prior to insertion into a rooting medium the dried cut end becomes wet. 

As an alternate to tub soaking a wet plastic wrap method was used. Some of the over wintered cuttings of Group A, B and C were used. Carl Pool Rose foliar feed and either Super-thrive, Vita-zyme or both were added to water according to the product instructions. A sprayer was used to apply the solution. The cuttings were sprayed until dripping wet. The inside of the plastic wrap was sprayed just before the first wrap was made. The wrap made from 2 to 3 passes around the major portion of the cuttings and the ends sealed with rubber bands. The cut ends were allowed to extend beyond the wrap and remain dry. 

Cuttings were allowed to remain wet over night without issues. Some cuttings were allowed to remain wet in this way for up to two weeks resulting in some rotting (black soft tissue) at some of the leaf scars. 

It is unclear if this treatment helps to speed rooting as there was no control or comparison group, cuttings varied significantly in size and cultivar type. Some cuttings had their weight measured before and after soaking with a postal scale without any measurable increase in weight. The resolution of the postal scale is 1/4 of an ounce.

RISK MANAGEMENT

Cuttings that show some untreated necrosis at leaf nodes or anywhere on the epidermal layer should not be wrapped. Even if the cutting surface and plastic wrap is very dry, the humidity level between the wrap and cutting will climb supporting the necrosis.

Uses of plastic wrap to soak cuttings with water and foliar feed should not exceed 12-hours. After cuttings are soaked with this method, they should be closely inspected for developing necrosis, quickly drying and treating any infected areas.

Plastic wrapped cuttings expose to direct sun light in warm weather will suffer serious damage as the temperature within will cook the latex killing the tissue. Brief periods of direct sun exposure are okay especially during cool and windy days of early spring. Once the weather warms and the sun is more directly overhead the plastic wrapped cuttings should only get indirect sun, dappled light or brief early morning direct sun with shade for the rest of the day.

Cuttings in air bags should be checked often to assure condensate has not drenched the cut end resulting in black rot. The new white roots more often than not gather condensate until they become wet, turn black and die.

Upon the first sight of roots emerging the cuttings should be placed into a medium that can sponge away excess water. This can be in pots, rooting tubes or rooting bags.

The primary purpose of a rooting mix in a rooting bag, other than filling the bag, is to assure moisture stability while providing ample air spaces of humid air. Initially the cutting can provide more than enough moisture for both first roots and the air spaces. The mix should be moisture neutral, have only enough dampness so as not to dry out the air and not so much water that it can not sponge away any accumulation of water on the cut end or roots.

Occasional condensate on the inside of the bag is normal and acts as a reserve of moisture. This reserve of moisture is useful initially for when temperature changes causes the air to become thirsty and later when new leaves cause the roots to remove moisture from the bag. 
 
Figure 5 – Photo taken September 24, 2010. Cuttings bagged on September 02, 2010 have filled with roots in 22-days. The rooting mix protects the initial roots from becoming drenched in condensate and supports the humidity of the air spaces. Once well rooted the mix becomes dry but root damage from dry air is avoided.




FURTHER STUDY
Studies using control groups and data records are needed to support whether soaking in plastic wrap is as good as tub soaking and to what extent either method is an improvement over no soaking at all.

Experiments with various conditions could indicate how to keep water from forming on new roots within an air filled rooting bag.